Climbing Year in Review 2023
better heel hooks, Filipino bigwall team aspirations, and unlearning defaulting to strength
I just published my personal year in review.
It’s a bit more broader than climbing, but I think you might find it interesting.
Since Unsend It is specifically about climbing, and lessons I’ve learned about uncertainty, identity, and growth from climbing, I wanted to reflect on my climbing specifically in this newsletter.
Highlights
I’m listing out the projects I’ve sent below. It’s not to flex, but to remind myself of how far I’ve come as a climber and keep my own stoke going.
Bouldering
Sending Monkey Wrench V7 in Red Rocks, NV.
Sending Angel Wings V5/V6 in a day. In Stoney Point, CA.
Sending both Yoga 7a/V6 and Téléphone Maison 7a+/V7 on the last day of my trip in Fontainebleau, France.
Sending Moon Drops V5/V6 at Black Mountain, CA. Right after my 30th birthday.
Sending Swing Dance V7 at Palm Springs Tramway, CA.
Sending Mosquito Incubator V8 in Squamish.
Sending Golden Boy V7 in Squamish after not even getting the crux the year before.
Sending Cracker Boy V7 after a full year! My first yearlong project.
Sending Once Upon a Time V1 cuz that thing is scary. Black Mountain, CA.
Sending Black Moth Super Rainbow V6 in two sessions. Black Mountain, CA.
Sending the highball Fallen Arch V5 in one session. Black Mountain, CA.
Sending Dragonfly V5 and Hobbit in a Blender V5 both in one session. Hueco Tanks, El Paso, TX.
Sending Daily Dick Dose V7 in Hueco Tanks. Yes, the last V7 of the year I send is called Daily Dick Dose. My first time sending a V7 in one session. Also, my first time sending a route despite (or maybe because of) no right shoe.
Sport Climbing
Sending Lion King 5.11c in Tonsai, Thailand!
Sending Incinerator 5.12a in Big Bear, CA. My first 5.12a!
Sending Pow! Right in the Kisser 5.12a in Malibu, CA. The day of rain, while the route was completely dry.
Sending Fear and Loathing III, 5.12a in Red Rocks, NV.
Multi-pitch
Following on Nut Cracker in Yosemite.
Following on Munginella (with Jesse) and Commitment (with Kuya Gerry and Cass) in Yosemite.
Doing my first multi-pitch lead, Skywalker, in Squamish. Shoutouts Gerry for partnering.
Swapping leads on After Seven in Yosemite. Shoutouts Brenda for partnering!
Leading Angel’s Fright in Tahquitz, CA. Shoutouts Geoffrey G. for partnering (and videoing).
Doing Levitation 29 to Pitch 5 with Ivan Gino. A mixed multi-pitch in Vegas, with a 3-hour hike. One of my first big days.
Projects I’ve started that I haven’t finished
Rude Boy V8, Hueco Tanks. I am so 👏🏽 damn 👏🏽 close. If I had applied more power in my last session, I definitely would’ve sent that.
Tour de France V7, Black Mountain. Still stuck on the same part for over half a year. Just like how I was stuck on the same part on Cracker Boy for over half a year.
Transmaniacon V8/9, Black Mountain. I’ll figure out my footwork on this one!
Fists of Fury V8. I pieced together everything except the starting moves, which is the crux. Like I can work this one solo but I… haven’t felt inspired by it? Idk. It’s a V8, so I should be inspired. But it’s a lowball. I do like taller, pretty boulders, but I sense that I’m avoiding this one. I haven’t had a problem projecting boulders alone that are safe to do alone. So why haven’t I gone back to it? Maybe I’m afraid to fail and I’ve been using “it’s a dumpy lowball” as an excuse to not go back to it.
Sombrero V8, Tramway. I feel like I haven’t made much progress on this one, despite going to this boulder once this year.
No Holds Bard V7, Yosemite. Still have yet to match on the rail, keep tension, step high, and lockoff to the spooky topout.
Midnight Lightning V8, Yosemite. I’m still struggling on the beginning move to hit the right rail. 🤣
Geometric Progression 5.12b/c. One session on this so far with Seth and Birdie (they’ve sent since then!). I toproped through the crux to figure out my beta. Really fun boulder-like project in Red Rocks. This one’s nice to work on a hotter day, as it’s in the shade. I think I’ll need two more sessions on this one to send.
Crash and Burn 5.12d, Echo Cliffs. Stuck from the third to fourth draw. Need to spend time on that and figure out my beta there.
Vesper 5.12b, Lime Kiln, AZ. Ivan and I gave this a work, and figured out our crux beta. Still had trouble getting over the overhang because I wasn’t comfortable committing to the hand jamming.
New Goals
Climb 5.12b while in Cebu + Iloilo this January and February! I’m going to be sport climbing in Cebu and Iloilo this year—thanks to the Global Climbing Initiative. I am pumped—I’ve been to the Philippines a ton, but never to climb. This will be one of the best trips ever. I want to try Sweet December in Cantabaco and Vulcanizer and Coral Highway in Danao.
Try a 5.13a/8a in Philippines. White Flower, I got my eyes on you…
Successfully lead 5.10a on trad. “What Tim? You want to lead hard trad?! But you’re a boulderer and sport climber!” Well, that’s because….
Gerry, Ivan, and I want to aid climb The Nose. Our dream is to be an all-Filipino bigwall team that sends The Nose. I don’t know if an all-Filipino team has done The Nose before, but this is something that means a ton to me. Same with Gerry and Ivan. We’ve made plans this June to climb as a trio, dial our systems, learn aid techniques, and see if The Nose is a realistic goal of ours for this fall.
I am most nervous and most excited about this one. Most nervous, cuz, I’m still working on my crack climbing. I’ve yet to practice aid techniques. It’s 1-2 nights on the wall. I’ll have to give up bouldering and sport climbing time to commit, especially if we’re aiming for this fall. 😱
Most excited because an all-Filipino team aiding The Nose? That’s something I want to see done. Why not done by us?
Send my first V9. Maybe Worm World Cave in Squamish when I’m there this August?
Mapping Out 2024
Rough map for 2024. This may change, of course.
January: up back the endurance at the gym. Danao’s got some long routes, some as long as 20 clips.
January – Feb: enjoy sport climbing in the Philippines!
March – June: stay in LA. Move to a new place in Los Feliz. No flights, minimal travel, just stay local. Lead two single-pitch crack routes, maybe in Joshua Tree, in preparation for Yosemite. Maybe go on a fun backpacking trip with Kayla in the Eastern Sierras.
June: United in Yosemite. Practicing big wall and aid climbing with Ivan and Gerry this June in Yosemite.
July: Rest in LA. Climb at the gym.
Late July to August: Squamish! With Kevin. Project Worm World Cave. Lead Spirit of Squamish, maybe take Kev up that.
October: Work The Nose with Gerry and Ivan. My stomach churns as I write that statement…
November – December: Relax. Have fun. Do whatever the fuck I want. Go on fun trips with Kayla. Go on fun trips with friends.
Lessons I’m carrying into 2024
I can excel at any style, but it does take time away from each other. Be present with that style when I’m in that dedicated phase. When I'm in a bouldering phase, embrace bouldering. When I'm in a sport phase, embrace it. When I'm in an aid phase, embrace it and notice when my brain is like "I wish I was bouldering now." I'm choosing this, and there is always time in the future to get back to the style I wish I was currently doing.
Continue to deepen climbing partnerships with folks who share similar goals and values. Last year, I climbed with a bunch of new people and learned about the kinds of people I value climbing with. I wrote in my year in review: “Enough is embarking on climbing goals with others who share similar goals and values. We can share similar values, but if we don’t have similar goals, it’s okay that we don’t climb together often. We can still be friends. And if we share similar goals, but not similar values, it is also okay that we don’t climb together often.”
Keep practicing the right technique. It took me a while to improve my heel hook technique this year, after years of not doing it optimally. On the tension board, I do tend to use my finger strength and general strength to get through problems. And I see how it holds me back from trying to engage my hips or keeping my feet on holds. I know when I get into V9-V10 territory, my lack of good body positioning, foot tension, and precision will hold me back. So, I’ll try to focus on good technique. Especially in problems I tend to cruise (V2-V5).